Fabulous resort to dive Rainbow Reef!
Sau Bay Resort and Spa is a very small isolated resort, accessible by boat only, located on the very Eastern tip of Vanua Levu across Somosomo strait from Taveuni. We went at the end of March, which was transitional weather from rainy (low season) to dry (high season). We had great weather the whole time, with intermittent afternoon rain and choppy afternoon water (but nothing that prevented us from diving Rainbow Reef the entire time). Mornings are flat and calm. Water temp 83 degrees F, Air temp 85-89 degrees, visibility 40-80 ft.
We chose Rainbow Reef based on our dive travel agency’s recommendation. Our family of three were the only divers the whole week. We had the boat all by ourselves, except for one trip we also had a couple of snorkelers, who were dropped off in the shallows while we dove at the world famous White Wall. Being the only divers we pretty much could choose where to dive, so we were able to dive the White Wall twice, one during slack current and one during strong current. The difference was astounding.
Being so close to the Rainbow Reef, we were able to make two morning dives and one afternoon dive each day. 15 mins boat ride each way! Boats from Taveuni-based resorts could only make 2 morning dives at Rainbow Reef because their rides are 20-45 mins each way. It was totally worth it, as we were the only divers on afternoon sites. The comfortable 32-foot, fast 300-hp aluminum boat Sau Diver could accommodate 12 divers, but there were only 3 of us, so we had plenty of room under the shade to stretch out. Giant stride in and low dive platform climbing out make diving very easy. They have another smaller (but just as fast) boat Sau Explorer that you do backward roll to get in and climb ladder to get out.
Valet diving so the DM and captain took care of everything for you, from beginning to end.
Now about the fabulous diving: We made a total of 18 dives over 6 days, including one night dive on the house reef (no night dive for us on the Rainbow Reef, but i heard it could be possible with a larger group). Hard coral is diverse, expansive and pristine (i saw no sign of bleaching, thankfully), soft coral of all colors and hues everywhere. Some coral rubbles remain from Cyclone Winston in 2016. Tropical fish in the tens of thousands everywhere, along with nudibranchs, eels and giant clams.
A favorite site was Jerry’s Jelly, named for the large hard coral that looks like heads of jelly fish, and jellyfish congregating in July. Huge (hundreds) schools of Longfin Banner Fish and Triggers. Also Sweetlips, Titan Trigger Fish, octopus, blue ribbon eels, giant clams, garden eels, and a million smaller tropicals of all colors.
Rainbow’s End was another favorite, with huge schools of blue and black Triggers with forked tails. Large stands of soft coral and huge staghorn coral.
Cabbage Patch was a unique site, with layers and layers of Cabbage Coral as far as the eyes can see (80 ft vis).
Now about the White Wall: we swam down through a tunnel and exited at 80ft to see a vertical wall covered with white soft coral. It was a great sight during slack tide. However, during strong tide at certain time of the month (make sure you check when you book your trip to coincide), the soft white coral all opens up, transforming the landscape into something that looks like white fluffy snow rolling down a mountainside. Amazing!
We also dove the Purple Wall, where the soft coral were purple and no less beautiful.
Other sites included Rainbow passage (Giant clams), Barracuda point (no barracuda but a small shark and interesting dart fish), Sau Bay Sanctuary (lots of hard and soft coral), The Ark (turtle, shar, and nudis, huge school of Moorish Idols), Coral Garden (just like the name, with a million small tropicals), Sam’s point (Bluefin Trevally, Silver Trevally, Moray Eels), Fish Factory (more fish, including large clown trigger and a hard-to-see Leaf Fish). We pretty much could ask to dive wherever we wanted, subject to tide and current.
And our best site:
The Zoo! True to name, tons and tons of fish (fishiest i have ever seen in my 40 years of diving), schools of barracudas and cornetfish; a few sharks; a sea snake; large grouper, stonefish, octopus, large yello nudis, fire dartfish, and so many beautiful hard and soft coral!
If 3 boat dives a day on Rainbow Reef is not enough, there is unlimited, free, easy and world class shore diving on the expansive house reef. To swim to the reef, we swam over shallow sand until we hit the reef and dropped off to 60+ ft. Plenty of healthy and vibrant hard and soft coral, with lots of fish (we saw Batfish and Spadefish) and glass shrimp. Visibility 30+ ft, dependin on depth.
Our our night dive on the house reef, our guide showed us a pair of Ghost Pipefish at the bottom of the boat anchorline. We also saw flounders, squid, large crabs, small shrimps, cuttlefish, and a huge sleepy puffer fish that the guide held in his hands.
Accommodation: very comfortable, not luxurious. We had a hillside deluxe room with A/C, indoor private bath and a large living room and veranda. Comfortable bed, lots of mosquitoes (so bring 40% deet repellent–not sold locally– and mosquito netting is provided). Shower has hot/cold water, but you have to calibrate very carefully so you don’t get all cold or all hot).
We had three meals a day. Breakfast is made-to-order eggs, delicious homemade bread. Lunches and dinners vary from fresh fish, chicken, beef, pork, locally grown vegetables, and rice and pasta. Vegetarian options available at every meal. Delicious local fruit, in season during March is papaya and pineapple and passionfruit.
Best for last: Staff is fabulously friendly and caring and we love them all!! Sera, James, Lui, Maria (great massage!). Singing, dancing and such happy people! Our dive staff (Instructor Mark, DMs Lotu and Carl, and Captain Freddy) are also fantastic and helpful. They transport all your gear, clean them at the end of each day, make sure you are comfortable and safe, and cater to your every diving wish. Leo, the American resort owner, is very pleasant and accommodating and led a really great staff.
Things to keep in mind: Bring 40% DEET mosquito repellent. Sunscreen. Strong cell signal over Rainbow Reef and strong Starlink Wifi at the resort. Change money at the Nadi international airport, no change at Matei and we didn’t see any ATM in Taveuni. Buy whatever you need (T-shirt, souvenirs) in Taveuni, as the resort carries very limited selection. We spent a morning visiting a local village where the staff came from. Dress conservatively for village tour (no tank top, short shorts, swimsuit). Brought school supplies to the local schools and met up with the 100+ school children. Must do the Cava, but keep in mind that they diluted it for non-Fijians. All tips are pooled and much appreciated. 240V electricity with ANZ plug type. English is widely spoken (Fiji was a British colony). We flew Air Fiji from LAX to Nadi overnight. Flight arrived late so we only had 45 mins to clear immigration and catch the interisland flight. Air Fiji staff helped us speed through immigration and go over to the domestic terminal, where we caught a 15-person, twin turbo prop DeHavilland Otter for 1 hour flight to Matei. We flew comfort+ international that allowed two 60 lb check in but only one carry on. Domestic is very strict, no more than 2 check in 30 lbs max each and one small carry on (no overhead bin). Matei airport is tiny, with one snack bar, outdoor seating and bathrooms and not much else. In conclusion, we paid a little more to stay at Sau Bay but it was an easy tradeoff for a very small, personalized eco-friendly resort with fabulous staff and so close to Rainbow Reef.
Essence of Fijian culture and hospitality!
Sau Bay Resort captures the essence of Fijian culture and hospitality. The Sau Bay family anticipates your every need, sincerely cares, and shares their idyllic life and beautiful paradise with the guests. Delicious food and beverages, comfort and pleasure, beauty and relaxation, kindness and sincerity: experience of a lifetime!
All of the food and beverages are fresh and homemade. I watch as my server cracks the coconut, harvests a star fruit and blends my drink. There are fresh homemade cookies in my burre every day.
The resort is located near Rainbow Reef so diving is convenient and top notch, truly the capital of soft coral and all that lives with it. Nudibranches, humphead wrasse, giant clams, file fish, trumpet fish, puffer fish, white tip sharks. Colors of the rainbow and in such competent hands of dive masters.
The manta ray snorkel excursion is amazing with captain spotting and free diving with the beautiful creatures. We saw 5 on our excursion which was on a windy day with part sun. First week of November we had beautiful weather!
Culture and education: highlight is Lovo (earth oven) dinner and Kava celebration with live music. There is actually live dinner music many of the evenings. The village tour with gardens, beautiful school children, the church, the elderly. It’s real!
Daily demonstrations: coconut processing, weaving, ceviche cooking, medicinal plants, hiking to the Top of the World.
Massages with the sounds of the wind and waves carry you away.
It’s the people that create this enjoyable experience. Thank you all for making this a highlight of a lifetime!
